西都(日本九州宮崎縣)

Shu-Fen Chiang
8 min readFeb 19, 2016

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西都「記・紀の道」步行約莫一小時的路程,參天大樹開展出沿途共分為:都萬神社、御舟塚、逢初川、八尋殿、無戶室、児湯の池、石貫神社、大山祇塚、鬼の窟、男狭穂塚・女狭穂塚的十個遠古神話場景。透過專業文史工作者的導覽介紹,得以認識西都原古墳群背後,一個關於天神孫子與木花開耶姬相遇的神話,與透過神話傳達出西都是神所選上的美麗之地。其中關於無戶室的故事最令我感到震驚,原本一見鍾情而結為連理的幸福佳偶演變成以無戶室自外放火燒自己以明志。雖然努力用古代強調皇族血脈的思維去理解,但仍對一開始的美麗邂逅竟然劇情如此急轉直下感到不可思議。 沿途的櫻花樹,繡球花,與即將盛開的波斯菊草原們,妝點著這座有311古墳的西都原古墳群國家特別史蹟公園。

另外,縣立西都原考古博物館,讓參訪者可以觸摸古文物的獨特設計體驗,親手觸摸百萬年前古物彷彿與遠古時空交錯,心中的震撼實在是筆墨難以形容。 除了走訪特殊的遠古幽情外,這兒恬淡悠然的氛圍與全日日照天數最多的宜人舒爽氣候,孕育著西都市溫暖坦率的人情風土。即便大多數居民英語能力並不流利,絲毫不阻礙他們傳遞友善與熱情。讓原本因繁忙高壓所積累的疲憊,在大量笑容的友好互動中釋盡。 這兒雖然沒有京都哲學之道的浪漫,也無北陸立山黑部合掌村的夢幻,但是西都的地景與氛圍卻是種樸實的回甘美好。 歡迎來西都市!

In Saito city of Miyazaki Prefecture, Kyushu Japan, there is a historic walking tour, kiki road (記・紀の道). It is about an hour easy walk surrounded by tall old trees and the historic tour is a story about a goddess of Japanese myth and it has ten places started from the 1-Tsuma Shrine then 2-Mifunezuka, 3-Aisome River, 4-Yahiroden, 5-Utsumuro, 6-Koyu Pond, 7-Ishinuki Shrine, 8-Ohyamazumi Mound, 9-Oni no lwaya and 10-Osaho Mound & Mesaho Mounds. The shrine is dedicated to Konohanasakuya-hime. She is worshiped as the goddess of marriage, natural childbirth and newborn because the famous Ninigi-no-mikoto, a grandchild of the God coming to the choosing land Saito and fell in love with her at first sight and then they got married and have three boys. I was shocked when I heard the story of the Utsumuro because a romantic love story became like a drama. Konohanasakuya-hime was pregnant but her husband, the grandson of the God didn’t believe that is his child so Konohanasakuya-hime said to him she can prove that she is stainless by locking herself inside of woods cabin with no door and windows out and set on fire. If she can survive, then she is truly having a baby of son of the God. I try to understand the story with some respect to the bloodline of Emperors of Japan but still have a hard time to appreciate this domestic violence and criminal part. Fortunately, it was not just sad story on the road but also it has dressing with all kinds of beautiful trees and flowers such as cherry trees, hydrangea and cosmos.

In the end of kiki road, there is a special historic national park, the Saitobaru Burial Mounds. A group of 311 burial mounds on elevated ground and the design of the Saitobaru ancient life experience in the Prefectural Saitobaru Archaeological Museum really make this historic walking tour unforgettable and impressive indeed. Saito city has more than mystic atmosphere but also like the most of places in Miyazaki, here has peaceful atmosphere and the beautiful climate including the number one sunshine duration place in Japan. People here in Miyazaki are very friendly and easy to get alone well. Even though most of local people don’t speak English but it doesn’t stop them passing their amiability and warm welcome to foreigners. It is easy to release all pressures and fatigue when you have so many smiles and good laughs with people here. Saito city doesn’t have romance like the Path of Philosophy in Kyoto or the world-class village, The Historic Villages of Shirakawa-gō and Gokayama. But the simplicity and beauty you will experience in Saito city can touch your heart in a sincere way. Welcome to Saito!

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此份刊物已經送達宜蘭深溝穀東俱樂部賴青松大哥家,以下是青松大哥加碼文章。

“一封來自九州西都的邀請函”

文:賴 青松

西都市 一個位於九州宮崎縣鄉下的小城

人口數約三萬 跟我們員山鄉差不多

如果不是透過宮崎縣的台灣塾計劃

http://www.newsmarket.com.tw/blog/64604/

我猜自己永遠都不會造訪這個日本鄉村

但是有趣的是 藉由台灣塾搭建的橋樑

這座日本小城卻頻頻向台灣的我們招手…

雖然只是個跟宜蘭員山規模相仿的農鄉小鎮

西都市卻擁有日本神話起源的豐富歷史景點

還有逼真3D顯像+可摸可玩的歷史博物館!

另外 適合單車與散步的平坦地形加上溫煦的陽光

以及綻放在春秋兩季的壯觀櫻花與波斯花海

無論是單車行旅或隨意散策都讓人回味無窮。

如果再加上宮崎縣產和牛以及土雞料理的加持

還有香氣清甜的特產柑橘日向夏的話

相信有許多朋友已經忍不住想一探究竟了吧!

但是對自己而言 西都的魅力卻不止于此

更令人好奇的是 一個不過三萬人口的偏鄉小城

為何能夠勇敢走向國際 向世人展現自己的慢活魅力!

甚至在政府預算補助下 發行中英雙語的免費社區刊物(這裡就是西都)

第二期還委託宜蘭半農田文社over編繪精彩的插圖

以及曾受邀走訪西都的自然食尚創辦人淑芬撰稿

讓人看見東亞慢島生活圈彼此串聯的真正可能性…

http://e-info.org.tw/node/111956

如果您也認同這種 深耕在地/串聯國際的西都精神

歡迎您加入發放西都Free Paper (這裡就是西都)的行列

無論您是獨立書店/輕食簡餐/咖啡廳或民宿

只要您願意向更多台灣朋友們介紹西都美好的人事物

都歡迎您向我們索取這份免費的小刊物(可選擇30份或50份)

並且在您收到這份小刊物之後寄回一張照片

照片上可以是您的商店門口或刊物擺放的陳列處

我們也希望將這份心意透過網路傳達給更多日本的朋友們

讓台灣與日本之間 人與人/村與村/城與城之間萌發更多友善的情誼…

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